VisitShetland

Foula

Foula - the Edge of the World

Foula (population 30) is one of Britain's most remote inhabited islands and leaves a lasting impression on everyone who visits. The crofting townships on the narrow coastal strip are dwarfed by the island's five dramatic peaks (Da Noup, Hamnafield, Da Sneug, Da Kame, and Soberlie). On the west coast are Shetland's biggest and most spectacular cliffs.

Foula's natural heritage is exceptionally rich and diverse for such a small area. The name means 'Bird Island' in Old Norse and Foula is designated as a Special Protection Area (SPA) for birds, a National Scenic Area and a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) for its plants, birds and geology.

Geology

Glaciers and the sea have carved some dramatic features in Foula's layered sandstone, including the breathtaking 1,200 ft (366m) sheer drop of the Kame, Britain's second- highest sea cliff. Gaada Stack's three pillars tower over the rugged north coast of the island, with its stacks, steep-sided geos, and a storm beach called Da Stanes. Da Sneck ida Smaallie is a rock fault over 100 feet (30m) deep.

Full o' Flowers

Awash with colour

In the long midsummer days, Foula's wildflowers provide a glorious burst of colour. Sea Pinks, blue Spring Squill and yellow Tormentil carpet the shoreline while Marsh Marigolds and wild orchids blossom gold and purple in ditches and marshes, with white tufted Bog Cotton, Sphagnum Moss, Sundew and Crowberry making patterns across the moorland.

Birds and beasts

For many years Foula has been an important research station for Glasgow University zoologists, not least because the island has the world's largest colony of Great Skuas (bonxies). This fierce, piratical gull competes fiercely with Arctic Skuas for breeding territories. Kittiwakes, Arctic Terns and Red-throated Divers return annually to nest. The cliffs teem with Puffins, Guillemots, Razorbills, Shags, Fulmars - and a small but increasing colony of Gannets. Leach's Petrel, Storm Petrel, and Manx Shearwater are also found, along with shore and moorland birds and migrating songbirds.

Both Grey and Common Seals haul up around the shore and can be watched at close quarters in the Voe. Schools of Killer Whales have been seen close inshore and Harbour Porpoises often follow the ferry. On a smaller scale, Foula is home to a unique sub species of field mouse, an island variety of house mouse, rabbits, and hedgehogs.

Making a Living

Strong winds, salt spray and the small size (average 5-6 acres) of holdings make crofting difficult in Foula. The hill grazing is good, but severe weather can prevent livestock reaching market. Friendly Shetland ponies roam the hills, and a cow and a few goats provide milk.

Most of the sheep in Foula are the hardy native Shetland breed. Their variously coloured fleeces are much in demand by hand spinners. Tourism and shell fishing provide seasonal income, along with sales of sheepskins, handspun garments in natural coloured local wool, and the traditional Foula ganzy, or jumper. The local smiddy sells wrought iron work, as well as providing a service to the community.

Modern electronic communications have reduced Foula's geographical disadvantage, allowing some islanders to supplement their croft income with computer work.

History, Culture and Folklore

Around 800A.D. Norsemen conquered Foula and took up residence in the fertile Hametoon, leaving us croft names like Norderhus, Krugali, and Guttren, and many other descriptive Norse placenames. The grassy knoll outside the Hametoon dyke, called Krukaitrin (Katherine's shelter) reminds us of the tragic end of Katherine Asmunnder, the last Norse 'queen' of Foula. The Lord's Prayer was still said in Norn in Foula at the end of the 19th century.

The Foula community has a strong Norse tradition of folklore, music and special festivities, still celebrating Christmas and New Year according to the feast days of the old Julian calendar - Yule on 6th January and Newerday on the 13th. The way of life in the island is based on caring and sharing, with co-operative working and an internal barter system.

After the Scots took over in the 15th century, Foula became part of a west Shetland estate. The fire in the middle of the floor of the last inhabited 'blackhouse' in Foula at Da Breckins went out in 1964. The Foula mailboat Island Lass was lost in 1962 and the population dropped to 27, but the remaining islanders were so determined to stay they built their own airstrip in the early 1970s.

The evacuation in 1930 of another Atlantic island, St Kilda, was immortalised in Michael Powell's famous film, The Edge of the World made in Foula in 1936, with many islanders taking part. Foula folk in the 21st century are determined not to go the same way as St Kilda and plans are under way for a new electricity system from wind and water power.

Getting There...

Foula is served by a Shetland Islands Council ferry, the New Advance, from the Walls Pier, on the West Mainland. There is also has a regular chartered air service by Direct Flight, using 8-seater 'Islander' aircraft from Tingwall Airport, just outside Lerwick. The flight is a wonderful way to see the West Mainland of Shetland.

Both the air and the sea service are very dependent on weather, so it's best to check with the operators before you set off for the pier or the airport.

Accommodation

Bed and breakfast and self-catering accommodation are available on the island and campers are also welcome if you follow the Countryside Code.

More information:
View our interpretive leaflet on Foula

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